
HOW AND WHAT TO GROW IN THE SOUTH 
FOR NORTHERN MARKETS 



CULTURE OF CABBAGE AND ONIONS,WITH 

HINTS FOR STORING AND 

MARKETING. 



THE FAMILY VEGETABLE GARDEN. 

PREPARATION, REQUISITES, WHAT AND WHEN TO PLANT. 



Published 1890, 

BY 

Johnson 8t Stokes, Seedsmen 

217 St 219 flQai*ket Street, 

Philadelphia. 



COPYRIGHTED 1890 BY JOHNSON & STOKES, PHILA. 



£ 



Publishers' Preface, 



(b HE 



HE Essays published herewith have been selected as the 
4 best from a large number received, in response to our 

& I offer of $100 in cash prizes for the best Practical Essays 
on the subjects, made in our Garden and Farm Manual for 1890. 

We have endeavored to publish them just as written by 
the authors, to whom the prizes were awarded, and, while many 
of our customers may not agree entirely with the writers in all 
their methods of culture, etc., it must be remembered that they 
are in widely diversified sections of our immense country, where 
climate, soils and customs may be different from their own 
particular location. 

We hope that all who read these Essays will be fully repaid 
for their trouble, and that some new ideas may be gained to 
assist them in their gardening operations. 

To add to the interest of the book we have inserted illus- 
trations of many of the leading varieties recommended by the 
authors as those with which they have had experience. 

JOHNSON & STOKES, 

Seed Growers. 

Seed Warehouses, 

217 and 219 Market Street, 

206 and 208 Church Street, 

Philadelphia, Pa. 



HOW AND WHAT TO GROW IN THE SOUTH FOR 
NORTHERN MARKETS. 



PRIZE ESSAY BY J. E. RUE, LITTLETON, N. C. 



There are many points to be taken into consideration in 
the above subject, much more so than the casual observer 
would think at first sight. In the first place, the territory is 
immense, reaching from the northern border of Virginia to the 
southern border of Florida and Texas ; from the Atlantic, on 
the east, over table-land and mountains far westward. This 
section of country is an agricultural section, as compared with 
New England, which is a manufacturing section. The popula- 
tion is not dense, land is low in price, the non-producer is not 
sufficient to take the surplus of the field and garden, hence the 
importance of the above subject. The soil yields wonderfully 
under genial rains and warm sunshine, for the amount of fertil- 
izing material, the cultivation given, and the judgment and skill 
displayed in managing any particular farm or garden crop. 

I will mention some of the advantages the Southern agri- 
culturist has over his snow and ice-bound neighbor in the 
North. There is not a month in the year that ploughing cannot 
be done, which, of course, facilitates his work and admits of 
better preparation of the land and allows him to extend his 
field of operation. Many crops can be sown or planted in the 
fall, which would not succeed at all in the North. Transporta- 
tion facilities have been very much improved, rates of freight 
lowered, through fast trains run to Northern markets, to carry 
perishable vegetables and fruit, with refrigerator cars where 
necessary ; in fact, the Southern truck and market gardener is 



4 How and WJiat to Grow 

much nearer the great New York and Philadelphia markets 
than in former years, to the great satisfaction of both sections. 

Another advantage, and undoubtedly the most important 
of all, is the earliness which vegetables can be put in the North- 
ern markets over that section, ranging from one to three 
months, according to locality. 

Two crops, and sometimes three, are not an unusual thing, 
If plenty of plant food, vegetable matter of various kinds, 
manure and fertilizers are applied with a liberal hand, continual 
cropping is no disadvantage, but, on the contrary, the land will 
gradually improve under a judicious and wise system of rota- 
tion, deep ploughing and sub-soiling. A deep, rich soil will stand 
more drouth, more wet weather, require and cost less for culti- 
vation, from the fact that the crop soon gets out of the way of 
weeds, grass, etc. Land intended for any cultivated crop 
should be well drained, either naturally or artificially. Land 
that is naturally cold after being drained can be improved in 
productiveness and earliness by ploughing it in small lands, and 
for rowed crops by bedding it up, thus acting as a drain between 
the rows, rendering it light and warm by absorbing the rays of 
the sun, and if the land gets grassy and weedy and needs fresh- 
ening, the beds can be reversed just before planting time. It 
must be remembered that the time specified for planting any 
given product must be governed by the locality in which the 
producer resides. 

The time given for the purposes of this essay refer to North- 
ern North Carolina ; those living farther South a little earlier ; 
those living farther North a little later. 

Now, as to what and how I shall plant will further engage 
your attention. 

Asparagus is among the first vegetables that makes its 
appearance in the spring; like many other vegetables, it has 
been very much improved in earliness, size and quality, and 



In the South for Norther n Markets, 5 

large quantities of this excellent and succulent vegetable find 
their way to the Northern markets from the South by the car- 
load, and command high prices, from the fact that people crave 
something fresh and green in the spring, and no other vegeta- 
ble can fully take its place. 

It stands in the same relation to vegetables that strawber- 
ries do to fruit. While it has been very much improved in 
variety and quality, its culture has been very much simplified. 
From the very nature of the plant, it is apparent it requires a 
deep and rich soil, free from a stiff clay sub-soil. 

Four to five feet rows for field culture, with horse-power, is 
about the proper distance, and 2 feet apart in the row to admit 
of free and easy cultivation. 

It is a quick grower and gross feeder, and requires a liberal 
supply of plant food. 

A heavy dressing of manure applied in the fall acts as a 
protection to the plant in winter and causes a quick and tender 
growth in the spring, so desirable in a vegetable of its nature. 
It being a native of salt marshes, an occasional dressing of salt 
is beneficial. The profits to be derived from this vegetable 
depends on the amount of manure applied, care and skill in 
cultivation, cutting, bunching, etc. 

The seeds are slow to germinate, and should be soaked in 
warm water for 24 hours before planting, which may be 
done early in the spring, in rows 12 to 15 inches apart; 
when well up, thin out to 5 or 6 inches in the row, cultivate fre- 
quently for the first year ; when one year old, the plants may be 
set out in trenches 4 to 5 feet apart, and 2 feet apart in the 
trench, spreading the roots out well and covering the crown to 
a depth of 4 inches of fine soil. Cultivate well for two years 
when the first cutting can be had. A bed of asparagus properly 
treated will last for 15 or 20 years, which can be said of but few, 
if any other, vegetables. As to varieties, Barrs Philadelphia 



6 How and WJiat to Grow 

Mammoth and Palmetto, both of recent introduction, are among 1 
the best for cultivation in the South : the latter having- origi- 
nated in South Carolina. From $3 to $6 per dozen bunches is 
not an unusual price in the spring to get for the above varieties, 



mkkrm w . 




and large quantities are produced on small areas of land, which 
makes it one of the most profitable vegetables to grow in the 
South for the Northern market. 

Beans are a crop that have been left almost exclusively to 
the Northern farmer, but of late are receiving more attention 
South. Snap Beans are grown at a profit for all early ship- 
ments, and before the crop near by the large Northern cities 
comes on the market. The wax varieties are among- the best to 
plant. The Improved Rust-Proof Golden Wax presents a fine 
appearance, is rich, stringless and tender. While the Improved 
Round-pod Valentine is one of the earliest and most popular 
green-podded sorts, Snap Beans require a good garden soil, well 
prepared, to be planted in rows 2\ feet apart and from 3 to 6 
inches apart in the drill, according to variety. Plant only when 
danger from frost is over, and the ground warm. 

Lima Beans are not so much a success in the South, one 
year with another, as they are further North. 



/;/ the South for Northern Markets, 




8 



How and What to Grow 




PROLIFIC TREE BEAN. 



Field Beans can be raised in the South cheaper than almost 
any other crop. The growth is quick, the cultivation required 
is but little in comparison to many others. 
The pea bean varieties are preferable to 
any others, and among them the Prolific 
Tree Bean takes the lead. Land prepared 
the same as for cotton, with 150 to 200 
pounds of fertilizers per acre, planted June 
1 5th, in rows 2\ feet apart, one to two beans 
in a hill, 15 to 18 inches apart in the drill, 
requiring about 4 quarts to plant an acre ; 
with one cultivation and one ploughing is about all they need 
until they are ready to gather. Northern-grown seed should 

always be used for planting 
in the South, without re- 
gard to cost. It will pay. 
There are other varieties, 
such as the kidney-shape 
beans, both red and white, 
*-1l1 l^^fe^^S^S^f^ that it would be well to expe- 
^ 11! % riment with in different locali- 

ties to ascertain their worth 
for any particular locality. 
The New Snow flake is a can- 
didate for public favor that has 
some fine points to commend it 
to the agricutlural world, one of 
which is, it drops it leaves at or 
near the time of maturity, expos- 
ing the fruit to the rays of the 
sun at a time most needed, and 
ripens the numerous and well- 
filled pods nearly all at the same time, so desirable in a bean crop. 




NEW SNOWFLAKE FIELD BEAN. 



In the South for Northern Markets. 9 

Irish, or White Potatoes, as an early crop, after selecting the 
proper variety, are among the best-paying vegetables grown 
for Northern markets. The Early Rose, while looked upon by 
many as a played-out variety in some sections, and probably 
justly so, is the standard variety in the South, and in my opin- 
ion more seed potatoes of this variety come to the South every 
spring from Northern latitudes than all other early varieties 
combined. Bliss Triumph, which is the variety planted largely 




on the Bermuda Islands for early shipment, is also being grown 
with profit in some of the Southern States, 

The potato delights in a deep, rich loamy soil, abounding 
in vegetable matter, and should be planted in February or March, 
according to locality. 

A liberal supply of manure is essential to well-developed 
tubers. 

Commercial fertilizers, rich in ammonia phosphoric acid 



IO 



How and WJiat to Grow 



and potash, applied after the crop needs its first working, at the 
rate of 400 pounds to the acre, equally divided as to each side 
of the row, have given better results than any other way. The 
bug is usually destroyed by one or two applications of Paris 
green. Potatoes treated as above will usually yield an abundant 
crop of fine large marketable potatoes in May or June, and 
release the land for other crops. 

Sweet Potatoes come to perfection in the South better than 
any other section in the United States, and are ready for market 
in July and August, when I have known them to retail in the 

Northern markets for 
8 \ cents per pound. 

All who have 
raised them know 
how they yield better 
than I could tell 
them. I know of one 
man in Edgecombe 
County, N. C, who 
plants as much as 




EXTRA EARLY CAROLINA SWEET POTATO. 



30 acres m sweet 
potatoes annually. Another very good market for the sweet 
potato is the home market. Hogs, cattle, sheep and horses are 
all very fond o'f them and eat them with a great deal of satis- 
faction and profit to their owners. The later varieties are 
better for home consumption, while the Extra Early Carolina is 
the variety to plant for early market. Medium quality land, or 
rather sandy with a small amount of fertilizing material and 
good cultivation, is about all they need to insure a good and 
paying crop. 

Peas are a crop that have some advantage over ordinary 
crops in the South, in as much as they can be shipped to market 



In the South for Northern Markets. 



II 



in the green state, and when prices decline below the paying- 
point they can be used for canning purposes. The early 
medium growing varieties, those requiring no supports, are 
planted to the best advantage in field culture. Johnson & Stokes' 
Extra Early Pea is the earliest and most popular and is planted 
largely throughout this section every year. Another advantage 




they have, so desirable to the market gardener, over many 
others, is,' the pods all mature at about the same time and can 
all be gathered in one or two pickings and the land cleared and 
utilized for some other crop. Peas do best planted early in the 
season, as soon as the ground is in good working condition. 
Well-decomposed stable manure in the drill has a fine effect on 



12 



Hozv and What to Grow 



the very early plantings, acting as a manure and giving a gentle 
heat at the same time. 

Commercial fertilizers will answer for the later plantings, 
for a succession plant every ten days after the first planting for 
six weeks, after which time the crop ceases to be a paying one 
on account of the excessive heat of summer. 

Cabbages are largely grown in the South, especially the 
early varieties, which usually succeed better one year 




NEW LARGE JERSEY WAKEFIELD. 

with another than the late varieties. Sow the seed of the 
early varieties in October, and when large enough transplant in 
rows, 3 feet apart and 2 feet in the row, setting down to the 
first leaf so the stem will be entirely covered. The 'New Large 
Jersey Wakefield is considered one of the best for this purpose. 
The Johnson & Stokes" Earliest and Market Gardener s No. 2 Cabbages 
are also very highly recommended by all who have grown 
them. 



In the South for Northern Markets. 




14 



How and WJiat to Grow 



The Early Summer is a little later, and should be planted 
for second early crop. 

The cabbage is a rank grower and strong feeder and 
requires a deep rich soil with plenty of manure, planting only 
one year on the same ground. An application of lime broad- 




SHORT STEM DRUMHEAD CABB VGE 



THE STANDARD J.ATE CABBAGE FOR 
THE SOUTH. 



cast is also beneficial to this crop, previous to setting out the 
plants and well-worked in the soil with some kind of harrow, 
and none are better for this that I have yet seen than the 
"Acme." 

The Short Stem Drumheqd Cabbage is the standard of all 



In the South for Northern Markets. 1 5 

late cabbages here and is usually planted in preference to any 
other variety. If the season is wet and not too hot, a crop of 
late cabbages is very often secured and proves profitable to the 
planter. 

The Cauliflower belongs to the cabbage family, but is more 
difficult to grow in the South and is often attended with failure. 
The Early Snowball, however, has so far succeeded better than 
any other variety. Sow seed the first of October, to transplant 




GILT EDGE EARLY SNOWBALL CAULIFLOWER. 



in cold frames when 2 or 3 inches high; protect during the 
winter and transplant early in the spring to head in May and 
June. For spring planting, treat the same as for early 
cabbage. 

For late crop, sow seed in June,- transplant in August, cul- 
tivate thoroughly. To bleach the head, tie the leaves together 
with matting. 



i6 



How and What to Grow 




KALAMAZOO BROAD 
RIBBED CELERY. 




Celery requires pretty much the same conditions of soil and 
climate as the cauliflower. The cultivation of celery is 
often attended with much difficulty in a hot. climate, even by 
experienced men. Sow the seed early in the 
spring in a moist place ; cover the seed shallow. 
On account of the slowness 
of the seed to germinate, 
a very good plan is to first 
burn a quantity of dry wood 
and brush on the seed-bed 
to kill any grass and weed 
seeds. The ashes will also 
be of much service to pro- 
mote the growth of the 
young and tender plants. 
Keep free from grass and 
weeds, and when five or six inches high transplant to well pre- 
pared trenches, highly manured with well decomposed manure. 

first wringing off the tops, 
which causes them to root 
quicker and live easier. The 
distance in width of rows 
depends on the variety 
planted, from 3^ feet to 5 
feet. The self-blanching 
varieties, such as White 
Plume, do not keep as well 
as the green varieties, such 
as Kalamazoo and Golden 
Dwarf, which require to be blanched by earth, being banked 
up to the stalks as growth proceeds. 

Cucumbers succeed in the South, planted in any month after 
danger of frost is past, up to August. Plant in hills 5 feet 




N^*^^ 



EARTHING UP CELERY WITH A DOUBLE-WHEEL HOE. 



In the South for Northern Markets. 



17 



apart, giving a shovelful of manure to the hill ; plant plenty 
of seed and thin out to 3 or 4 of the best plants, when all 
danger from bugs and insects is past. For pickles, plant late, 
giving the same treatment as for early planting. Early Frame 
Cucumber is one of the best general purpose cucumbers in 
cultivation. Evergreen White Spine is the great market variety. 
Long Green is well adapted for slicing and pickling. Nichors 




Medium Green is a very meaty and showy cucumber, and should 
be included in all plantings. 

The Gherkins, or Burr Cucumber is used exclusively for 
pickling, is very productive, and a profitable variety to grow 
for that purpose. 

Egg-plant. — This tropical vegetable is very tender when 
young. The seed slow to germinate, and hard to keep alive 



18 



Hoiv and What to Grow 



after it is up. On account of these conditions, it should be 
planted in a separate hot-bed, as they require more heat than 
any other plant. When up about 2 inches transplant to small 
pots, which insure more stocky plants. When the weather 
becomes warm and settled, transplant in the open ground in 3 
feet rows, and 30 inches in the rows, in well-prepared and man- 
ured soil ; cultivate well and draw the earth up to the stalk as 
they advance in age and size. The potato bug is very fond of 




NEW JERSEY IMPROVED LARGE PURPLE EGG-PLANT. 

the egg-plant, and should receive the same treatment as for 
Irish potatoes while the fruit is small and green. Several varie- 
ties have been offered the public, but none do so well for us 
here as the Improved Neiu Jersey Large Purple Smooth Stem Egg- 
plant, either for home use or market. 

Spinach is also another vegetable prized for its earliness and 
its easy management, coming in season before many others of 
its nature, and commanding good prices in the late winter and 



In the South for Northern Markets. 



l 9 



early spring. It is capable of standing- the winter South with 
but little or no protection. The American Savoy is our standard 
for fall sowing, being very hardy and standing handling and 
transportation better than other varieties. Plant in September 
and October, on deep soil, heavily manured, in drills 15 to 18 
inches apart, thin to 6 to 8 inches in the drills, according to the 
richness of the soil. Keep clean of grass and weeds, which is 




easily done at this season of the year. For spring planting, 
sow as early as the ground is in good working condition. When 
the weather becomes warm, it is of no use to plant spinach, as 
it would soon run to seed. It is packed in barrels and shipped 
to the Northern markets in large quantities at paying figures 
before the crop of that section is ready for sale, after which it 
would not pay to ship, and may be left for seed if wanted ; if 
not, the land could be utilized for. other crops. 



20 



How and WJiat to Grow 



Lettuce is a plant that succeeds well in the South. It 
requires a deep and rich soil, with plenty of manure and mois- 
ture, in order to make it grow 



..>v\»r*, Q,.->- • 




LARGE WHITE RUSSIAN LETTUCE. 



quick, crisp and tender. It 
may be planted in the fall 
and protected in the winter 
in much the same way as 
early cabbage. It can also 
be sown in hot-beds in spring 
or winter, and transplanted 
when the ground is in good 
working condition. 

Plant in open ground as 
soon as any other hardy vegetable can be planted, in rows 12 to 
15 inches apart, according to soil and vigor of variety used. 
The heading varieties, such as 
ReicJiner s White Butter, White Rus- 
sian, Large Passion, and Defiance, 
are preferable to all others for the 
South. Thin to 6 to 10 inches in 
the drill. To blanch, tie the outer 
leaves together, which is seldom 
done except on a small scale. 

Onions are grown from the black seed in the South princi- 
pally from the Italian varieties. They succeed on deep rich 
loamy soil, highly manured, thoroughly worked, and planted on 
the same land every year. Onion sets planted in the fall produce 
edible onions very early in the spring and command high prices 
in Northern and city markets and hotels, and are probably the 
most profitable of all. The Potato Onion is also a most profit- 
able onion to grow for field culture, vigorous, hardy, productive 
and a good keeper. The same conditions of soil, manure and 
culture, with the exception of distance that apply to other varie- 




REICHNER'S early white butter. 



In the South for Northern Markets. 2 1 

ties of onions, apply to the Potato Onion. The proper time to 
plant is the first of October. 

The land should be ploughed in such a manner that the 
water will not settle around the onions, which would cause them 
to rot. 

Watermelons are largely grown South for Northern markets. 
In no section do they do better. Plant 8 to 10 feet each way in 
a sandy loam, putting 2 or 3 shovelfuls of manure to each hill; 
commercial fertilizers broadcast, at the rate of 200 pounds per 
acre, in connection with the manure applied in the hill, is often 
attended with good results and profit. Pinch off end of vines if 
inclined to run too much. For shipping, plant thin but tough 
rind varieties, such as Kolb Gem, Christmas and Johnson s Dixie. 
The latter is a new Southern variety, possessing great advan- 
tages over all other varieties and will probably take the place 
of Kolb Gem as a shipper when it becomes more generally 
known. Dry lime, sulphur, soot and even road-dust applied to 
the leaves when wet with dew will keep off bugs and insects. 
Use plenty of seed in planting, and when well established thin 
to 2 or 3 of the most vigorous vines to the hill. Plant when all 
danger from frost is past. The life of the vine will be pro- 
longed by sowdng field peas among the vines just before the last 
working; cultivate as long as the vines will admit of it. For 
very early, they may be planted on inverted sod in hot-bed or 
under glass, and set to permanent hills when the weather will 
admit of it. 

Tomatoes succeed under certain circumstances and fail 
under others. Some varieties are not worth planting in the South. 
If planted on ordinary soil highly manured, they produce a 
quick growth, mature early and die. If planted on deep, rich 
soil without any manure, they are not so forward, but will bear 
until frost. Later plantings set out among cotton, corn or 



22 



How and What to Grow 



S LU ^ 

US fci 

o w o 

u ® ^ 

£ -*J ? 




In the South for Northern Markets. 23 

tobacco give a good supply until killed by frost in the fall. The 
Tree Tomato is not worth planting in the South. 

Dzvarf Champion, while something similar to the Tree To- 
mato in foliage, growth and appearance, does well on account 
of its foliage protecting its fruit from the hot rays of the sun in 
summer. Livingston's Favorite is a large, smooth, round tomato, 
red in color, solid and a good shipper. Trophy is also a good 




DWARF CHAMPION TOMATO. 



tomato, and a standard late variety, well adapted to home use or 
for market. 

There are other varieties that might be added to the list 
that would give equally good results as many of those men- 
tioned above. What would succeed in one section of the South 
might prove a failure in another, and to ascertain that fact the 
different and even new varieties should be experimented with. 
The tomato is tender and should be so considered. Transplant- 
ing in pots has a tendency to make stocky and early plants. 



24 How and WJiat to Grow 

For shipping purposes, select a solid, tough skin variety, gather 
from vines before fully ripe, handle with care and pack close in 
crates to prevent moving about and bruising. 

I have found success in market gardening largely depends 
in procuring seeds direct from Northern latitudes and from 
firms of known and established reputation. Cheap seeds are 
dear at any price. Life is too short, competition too great, to 
run the risk of doubtful seeds, even if offered to you at a low 
price and in a beautiful chromo-lithographed package. 



HOW AND WHAT TO GROW IN THE SOUTH FOR 
THE NORTHERN MARKETS. 



PRIZE ESSAY BY JAS. MOSS, WESTMINSTER, ORANGE COUNTY, CAL. 



Mr. Moss is located in Southern California, and the directions given by him 
will therefore apply to the extreme Southern States of the East.— Publishers. 

To enter fully into the above sub j ect , embracing as it may do 
the cultivation and growth of fruits, vegetables, seeds, plants, 
etc., would require a book of many pages and volumes. Suppos- 
ing,' however, the subject to refer to vegetables that cannot be 
grown in the Northern States, or more correctly speaking, those 
delicate varieties which cannot, owing to climatic conditions, 
be grown there during the winter and early spring months, I 
will endeavor, from my experience as a farmer and market 
gardener, to give a practical account of their cultivation, etc., 
according to the terms specified. 

Beans— The string bean, or edible podded variety, is justly 
considered one of our daintiest table vegetables, and invariably 
finds a ready sale in the Northern markets during the winter 
and early spring months; large quantities of this delicious 
vegetable are grown in this neighborhood for shipment. 

Soil.— The most suitable soil is a light sandy loam; the 
richer the land the better will this plant thrive and yield, and 
should be fertilized with a liberal dressing of good farm-yard 

manure. 

It is most essential to have the land thoroughly well 
pulverized. It cannot be too much worked before sowing the 
seed, and these remarks are applicable to the preparation of 
all lands intended for vegetable culture. 



26 



How and WJiat to Grow 



Sow or drill the seed beans in shallow drills 3 feet apart, 

and thin out the young plants to 12 inches apart in the rows; 

. cultivate well and often, and hill up the plants when they show 

signs of commencing to flower. Make the first sowing about 

the middle of September, and continue with successional sow- 




ings until the end of February. This will insure a constant 
supply of shipment through the winter and spring months. The 
varieties of this class of bean are so numerous that it is a diffi- 
cult matter to fix upon any one in particular. The Improved 
Round Pod Valentine is a good and prolific green pod variety, 
and the Mammoth Yosemite is a most delicious and valuable new 



In the South for Northern Markets. 



27 



wax pod variety to grow, and commands a high price and ready- 
sale. 

Asparagus. — This delicious and world- 
famed vegetable is deserving of the most 
careful and intelligent culture. It de- 
lights in a moderately heavy loam, and 
the land, previous to planting, should 
receive a thorough and careful prepara- 
tion ; if ploughed should also be sub- 
soiled to a depth of from 14 to 18 inches, 
and an extensive covering of well-decayed 
manure well worked in with the soil. A 
good plan is to grow it in beds 4 feet 
wide with irrigation ditches between, 
where such is necessary, and every season 
after the final cuttings are made should 
receive quite a heavy coating of common 
bay salt, for the Asparagus is really an 
alkali plant, and salt is the most effectual 
fertilizer. It grows to perfection on the 
alkali lands of the Pacific Coast without 
any fertilizers whatever, and is generally 
grown in narrow beds about 2 feet wide 
and 3 feet apart. Keep free from weeds 
and treat liberally as described, and a 
full crop will be insured each year. 
I should recommend growers to propagate 
this vegetable from roots ; a saving of 2 
years' crops will thus be effected, which 
will compensate one-hundredfold for the 
additional cost of the roots over that of 
the seed. The Giant varieties are de- 
cidedly the best ; the Palmetto is a splendid 
plant to grow, being larger and more salable than Conover's 



28 



How and WJiat to Grow 



Peas. — This is the real king of all vegetables, and cannot be 
too extensively grown. I have never known the time that I 
could not have sold double the crop I have ever grown. 

This vegetable grows and yields most abundantly on mod- 
erately heavy land, even approaching to a clay soil ; have your 
land well ploughed and in good condition by the middle of Sep- 
tember, when the first sowing should be made. I have inva- 
riably grown the second early varieties in preference to the first 
earlies ; the pods are larger and heavier and consequently pay 
the producer better for shipment, as it is simply a matter of a 
few days earlier in sowing. Drill, or, we sow the peas in rows 




4 feet apart and about \ inch in depth ; keep well cultivated 
and free from weeds. The pea delights in rich land, and will 
impoverish it almost more than any other crop ; therefore, it is 
wise to select another piece for the next year's crop of this 
vegetable. 

Bliss Ever-bearing is an excellent pea; have grown most 
successful crops from this variety, and on account of its short, 
compact habit of growth is very suitable for field culture. 

Carter s Stratagem is also a fine pea, and yields enormously ; 
but in damp lands I find it more liable to mildew than other 
varieties. 

Carter s Telephone is a splendid mammoth marrow pea, 



/;/ the South for Northern Markets. 



29 



but grows tall, 4 to 5 feet, and requires more room, and 
should be supported with brush wood. 

The old favorite, Yorkshire Hero, is one of the very best peas 
for market gardening 
purposes. It is a 
heavy cropper, and 
the flavor of the peas 
cannot be disputed 
by the most critical 
epicure. Make suc- 
cessional sowings ev- 
ery three weeks, until 
the end of February, 
and insure a full sup- 
ply all through the 
winter and spring 
months. 

Tomato. — This is 
fast becoming a most 
favored vegetable to 
both rich and poor 
alike, and deserves 
the increasing atten- 
tion paid to its culti- 
vation ; it is, however, 
a very delicate plant, 
and can only be 
grown in winter in 
the most favored lo- 
calities. It thrives 

and produces well in any ordinarily well-cultivated soil, but I 
find a rather heavy soil produces the most abundant and largest 
tomatoes. 




3o 



How and What to Grow 



Sow the seed thinly in boxes of rich fibrous soil, mixed 
with about one-fourth part of very old, well-rotted manure, any- 
time from September to December ; a little bottom heat will 
hasten the growth of the young plants; this may be done by 




placing the boxes or seed-pans upon a hot-bed of fresh stable 
manure, but care must be taken not to have the bed too hot so 
as to scorch the young plants ; a good plan is to place about 6 
inches of garden soil upon the top of the fermenting manure. 
When the plants are sufficiently large and strong to handle 



/;/ the South for NortJicrn Markets. 31 

they can be carefully transplanted in rows from 3 to 4 feet apart, 
and 2 feet apart in the rows. It is wise to select an early and late 
variety, and from the accounts of all gardeners who have seen 
and grown the Atlantic Prize, as the earliest tomato, and Brandy- 
wine, for general crop and late, nothing can be superior to 
them. These two varieties have proven two of the very best 
that can be grown for market and shipping. The Mikado or 
Turner Hybrid is also a splendid late variety, growing very large 
and handsome fruit. 

Cabbage. — This hardy and useful vegetable always makes a 
profitable return to the Southern farmers for its cultivation. 
(For full particulars of cabbage culture, see Essay " Cabbage 
and Onions.") 

This spring the cabbages grown in this section were 
eagerly bought up by the packing house firms at from $20 to 
$27 per ton, packed in crates and shipped by the car-load to the 
North and East. My neighbor realized $500 per acre from a 4- 
acre tract of cabbages. 

The seed is sown in September, and transplanted into the 
field in the latter part of December and the early days of Janu- 
ary. The pointed or conical-shaped cabbages are decidedly 
best for this purpose ; their quality for table use is superior to 
the flat varieties. Johnson & Stokes 1 Earliest Cabbage I have 
found a splendid extra early variety. The Early Jersey Wake- 
Jield follows a week or ten days after it, and is also one that 
would give perfect satisfaction to the grower and consumer 
alike. 

Cauliflower. — The cultivation of this vegetable is in all 
respects similar to that of the cabbage ; select, of course, a 
heavy rich soil. Johnson & Stokes' Early Alabaster is a new 
American variety which cannot be surpassed. 



32 



Hozv and What to Grow 




Iii the Sou til for Northern Markets. 33 

Onions. — The Southern farmers must grow an early onion 
in order to secure the full benefits of the Northern markets ; 
they are shipped from here by the car-load in April and May 
(for full particulars of the culture of this important vegetable, 
see my Essay on "Cabbage and Onions"). The soil selected 
must be of a heavy nature; sow the seed in shallow drills, 12 
or 14 inches apart, in the months of November and December; 




the early white varieties are the best for this purpose, and 
there is none better than the Extra Early Pearl and the White 
Queen. When the young plants are large enough to handle, 
thin out to 3 or 4 inches apart ; keep well cultivated and free 
from weeds. 

Potatoes. — The potato and its culture is known to all 
dwellers in rural districts ; it seems, therefore, superfluous to 



34 How and What to Grow 

enter into particulars. It delights in a moderately light sandy 
or loamy soil, requires good land and should not be grown too 
long on the same soil. Land that has been well fertilized the 
previous year for some other crop is generally best suited to 
the potato. Plough and prepare the ground well, have it in 
proper condition, not wet, just so the soil falls away freely from 
the plough. Plant the seed in rows about 30 inches apart, 
keep clean and free from weeds and hill up the vines when 
strong enough for that process. For early shipment the earliest 
varieties should be grown. Among the best we find Crown Jezvel 
to be the earliest, while Beauty of Hebron, Early Rose and Early 
Ohio follow closely after it. Plant from January to the end of 
February, and the crop will be ready for sale by the month of 
May, when they are much in demand and command excellent 
prices. 

Ground or Pea-Nuts are extensively grown and never fail to 
make a good return. The cultivation of this plant is very sim- 
ple. It delights in a very 
light sandy soil. Shell the 
nuts before planting, and 
drop two or three in the 
ground about 2 inches deep 
in rows about 30 inches 
apart and 18 inches between 
the plants ; keep well cultivated and free from weeds ; the seed 
of this crop is sown any time from March to the end of April, 
and harvested in September and October. 

Melons. — Water and muskmelons are delicate plants and 
liable to damage or total destruction by the slightest frosts; 
therefore, care must be observed in the time of planting and 
choice of location. A rich, very light, warm soil is most suited 
to their growth. The seeds are generally planted from Febru- 




GEORGIA IMPROVED GROUND PEA. 



In the South for Northern Markets. 



35 



ary to April in rows from 6 to 8 feet apart and 3 feet between 
the hills; frequent cultivation and hoeing, whilst the plants are 
young, is necessary to keep the soil well open to the rays of the 
sun, as all the heat they can get is required for their early pro- 
duction. Of the watermel- 
ons I would strongly recom- 
mend the Christmas Water- 
melon. It is of fine quality 
and firm, and the best of all 
for shipping purposes, 
whilst lovers of muskmel- 
ons will find none to equal 
the Osage and Princess. 

In addition to the fore- 
going, there are many other 




JOHNSON'S CHRISTMAS WATERMELON. 



varieties of vegetables 



o 

grown and shipped North, such as radishes, early beets, earl) 
sweet corn, peppers, cucumbers, etc., together with early fruits 
of such numbers and varieties that are probably not intended 
for inclusion in these essays. 



CULTURE OF CABBAGE AND ONIONS, WITH HINTS 
FOR STORING AND MARKETING. 



PRIZE ESSAY BY GEORGE F. ROESSLER, PHILADELPHIA, PA. 



Onion Culture. — The onion is a most profitable vegetable for 
the farmer or market gardener to grow, because it is called for 
in the market every day ; for where is there a good cook who 
would be without an onion in her pantry? Again, if there is no 
present demand when harvested the crop will keep for a time 
until there is a demand in the market for them. But to grow 
onions profitably a man should have soil adapted to their 
growth. A rich loam slightly mixed with clay is the best, and 
he who has this can grow onions to perfection. Other soils 
may yield a good crop, and fine crops are raised on well-drained 
black muck lands. In the Eastern States, and on the bottom 
lands of some of the Western States, onions are raised to per- 
fection from seed the first year, but in the Middle and Southern 
States the sets are generally planted. In the former case the 
crop is most profitable, and where thus grown from seed, are 
raised in large quantities, while in Pennsylvania and New 
Jersey, around the large cities of Philadelphia and New York, 
what are raised are generally sold green or marketed during the 
summer or fall months. The onion requires rich soil, and 
there is no crop that must be manured so heavily with well- 
rotted manure. The manure should be prepared in the fall or 
winter beforehand and turned over several times to make it 
fine, well decomposed and fermented. A few weeks before 
planting time turn it over for the last time and mix in with it 
a peck of Peruvian guano and the same amount of coarse salt to 



Cabbage and Onion Culture. 37 

a cart-load of manure ; let it lie in a large heap until your ground 
is ready ; when time for planting comes plough your ground, 
harrow well, and just before your last harrowing spread your 
manure evenly at the rate of 40 or 50 cart-loads to the acre over 
the soil ; then the last harrowing will incorporate the manure with 
the soil and it will be just where the roots of the onions will 
get the entire benefit of the manure. It will be observed from the 
roots of the onion that they do not extend very far down, there- 
fore they get their sustenance from the earth near the surface, 
and also the atmosphere above them which comes down to 
them. Hence, onions grow best near the ocean, along rivers 
or watercourses, where the air is always moist. Onions may 
be grown on the same soil for a number of years without being 
detrimental either to the soil or crop, provided the ground is 
well manured every year. Of course, other crops can be grown 
when the onions are harvested, as it does not take the entire 
season for the onion to mature. 

We have now mentioned the preparation of the manure 
and soil, also conditions of soil and climate. We think this 
course to pursue will answer for the entire onion-growing 
region, whether it be North, South, East or West, or whether 
he be a market gardener on a large or small scale, or only a 
small plot for family use. After your ground is prepared (and 
this should not be done until you are fully ready to plant your 
sets or sow your seed as the case may be), mark out two straight 
rows, 10 or 12 inches apart, then leave a space, from 20 to 24 
inches, for the cultivator ; plant or drop your sets a few inches 
apart in the row, cover either by hand, rake, or, if a large patch, 
use a cultivator ; by taking out a few teeth, it can be arranged 
so as to cover nicely. Where the seed is sown for large bulbs 
adopt the same plan, sow the seed, about half an inch deep at 
the rate of 5 or 6 pounds to the acre by a hand-seed drill and 
roll ; when up, thin to a few inches apart in the row. The onion 



38 



The $100 Prize Essays 



should be cultivated frequently in the early part of its growth, 
not very deep, and kept clean from weeds, especially from its 
very start. Do not allow the crop to be stunted a day on 
account of weeds getting the upper hand. After a shower, if 
the ground is getting hard, give them a hoeing, as the crust on 
the ground is apt to burn and scald them, particularly while 
young. After they have gained the mastery, they will require 

very little attention. In culti- 
vating, use a "Planet Jr." or 
Lees Wheel-hoe between the 
narrow space, and a horse-hoe 
in the wide space. When the 
tops drop over and begin to 
turn yellow, pull up and let 
them lay a day or two before 
topping. This allows the sac- 
charine juice still in the tops 
to be absorbed by the onion. 
When perfectly dry, house in 
a cool airy room, barn or garret, well ventilated. They may be 
spread over the floor, 5 or 6 inches in thickness or depth. They 
should be frequently looked after, and if any rotten ones appear 
they should be constantly removed, as they will contaminate 
the others ; and, remember, they keep best with the thermometer 
just above the freezing point, and when once frozen they should 
not be permitted to thaw and freeze again. Onions should 
never be handled when in a frozen condition. 

In Pennsylvania, a great number of onions are put up in 
ropes and sold in the Philadelphia markets. This is a little 
extra trouble, but pays well ; for this purpose they should be 
topped with rather long stems. Each locality will, of course, 
best know how and when to dispose of their crops. 




CULTIVATING ONIONS WITH THE "PLANET JR. 
DOUBLE-WHEEL HOE. 



Cabbage and Onion Culture . 



39 



Growing Onion Sets. — Growing sets is also an important 
matter in the line of this vegetable. As thousands of bushels 
are grown near to and sold in the Philadelphia markets and 
elsewhere every year, therefore a few words in regard to their 
growth will not be out of place. The best varieties for growing 
sets are the Philadelphia Yellow Dutch or Strasburg, White Silver 
Skin and Extra Early Red. The ground for sets should be pre- 
pared in the same manner as for large onions, but need not be 
manured so heavily. Be sure and get the ground well harrowed 
and as fine as possible. Mark out irregular rows 16 inches 
apart. If ground is scarce or valuable, near a large city, instead 





PHILADELPHIA YELLOW DUTCH ONION. 



EXTRA EARLY RED ONION 



of leaving a space for cultivator, sow a row of seed, making the 
rows only 8 inches apart, or plant a bed of strawberries 
between, 'if such is desirable. To sow the seed we always 
mark out by hand with a double-tooth rake, to make a furrow 
\\ inch deep and 2 inches wide, the rows to be 10 or 12 inches 
apart. In these rows sow your seed thick enough to almost 
entirely cover the earth, 55 to 60 pounds to the acre. This may 
seem to some too thick, but we must consider that at least some 
of the seed, however good and fresh it may be, will not come 
through ground, others' will be cut off in hoeing and some in weed- 
ing. All these things should be considered when sowing, and 



40 The $100 Prize Essays 

extra allowance made. Then' again, the seed has a better advan- 
tage in pushing through the ground, as sometimes after the seed 
is sown, a heavy rain may come and pack the ground, forming a 
crust, so that a few straggling seeds would have hard work in 
pushing through. They also make better sets when grown 
thick; they will grow up and push each other out and the weak 
will succumb and give place to the hardy. It is easier to hoe 
off a few if too thick, but if too thin nothing can be done, and 
they grow too large. Keep the sets well hoed but not too deep, 
and clean from weeds. When the tops begin to turn yellow 
and somewhat dry and the bulb well formed, it is time to pull 
them ; do not leave them in the ground until the tops are 
entirely dried up as they will be more troublesome to pull. 
When left a little too long so the tops get too dry to pull easily, 
our Philadelphia truckers generally use an ordinary hand 
trowel to take them out. When taken out put on boards or 
hard flat ground to dry for a few days. When thoroughly dry 
gather them up and sieve them through a f or ^-inch sieve, 
which takes out the picklers, or clean through a fan and then 
take them to the store-house. This should be a garret or floor 
on a second or third story, crates or scaffold in some outbuild- 
ing, barn or carriage-house. Spread 2 or 3 inches thick, not 
thicker than 3 inches. Keep the place where the sets are stored 
well ventilated in dry weather and cool, and if kept on slat 
crates they should be raised 5 or 6 inches above each other to 
admit a circulation of air. Occasionally give them a raking 
with a wooden-tooth rake. When very cold weather sets in, 
unless the room can be slightly warmed, cover with bags, 
blankets or straw ; they will stand freezing, but in very severe 
long cold weather they must be protected to avoid freezing and 
thawing as much as possible, and always bear in mind never, 
under any circumstances, to handle onions or onion sets while 
in a frozen condition, as the slightest bruise when frozen will 



Cabbage and Onion Culture. 



41 



cause them to dry out or rot. I have endeavored to give 
practical hints from my own experience in growing onions and 
sets in this short Essay. Others may know something else to 
suggest ; but if the rules laid down here be followed, with good 
seed and good weather, we can raise and keep crops of onions 
and onion sets. 

CULTURE OF CABBAGE. 

Aside from the potato, possibly there is no vegetable in 
more demand the year round than the cabbage, unless it be 




D EARLY JERSEY WAKEFIELD CABBAGE. 



onion. The question, then, arises, How can the market gardener 
in the vicinity of Philadelphia or elsewhere in the same lati- 
tude, have this vegetable in stock to supply the demand at all 
times? The two main points in making this vegetable a profit- 
able crop, are, how to grow and how to keep during the winter 
and late in spring. I may say just here, there is no crop that 
yields more to the acre, and which can be harvested with so 
little expense as the cabbage. But let no one, when he reads 
this, say I will plant my entire farm next year in cabbage— you 



42 The $100 Prise Essays 

may lose as well as gain. But plant some cabbage. We will, 
in this brief essay, try to state what we know about grow- 
ing cabbage for the Philadelphia market. 

For an early crop, sow the seed about the second week of 
September in open ground broadcast or in drills. By the middle 
of October, the plants should be taken up and transplanted in a 
cold bed having a Southern exposure, with a border or wind- 




SELECTED EARLY SUMMER CABBAGE. 



break on the North. The bed should be about 6\ feet wide, so 
that boards 14 feet long, cut in two, will reach across for covers. 
These covers should be made by nailing three or four boards 
together, with a strip across top and bottom, and should be 
propped open during the middle of the day in winter, except in 
very cold or stormy weather. 

The best varieties for early spring planting are, I think,/. & 
S. Earliest, Early Jersey Wakefield and Early Summer; these three 



Cabbage and Onion Culture. 



43 



will succeed each other if planted at the same time. Cabbao-e 
should be planted just as soon as the ground is free from frost. 
and dry enough to work nicely ; better wait a week longer than 
plant on wet, soggy soil. The best ground for early cabbage is 
ground that was sod the year before or soil that has not been 
cropped too frequently. Never raise two crops of cabbage on 
the same ground in succession ; no matter how rich the ground 
you will have a weak crop the second season. Plant in rows 




EARLY WIN.N'IXGSTADT CABBAGE. 

from 2\ to 3 feet apart and 20 to 24 inches in the row. This 
may seem close planting to large farmers where land is cheap, 
but truckers who have but a few acres plant even closer than 
this. When fit to cut, early cabbage must, of course, be sent to 
market and sold for whatever it brings. So much for these 
varieties, and these should all be headed and sold and the 
ground cleared for some other crop by the middle of August. 

For a late summer and fall crop, we prefer the Flat Dutch 
type. The Winningstadt is, however, a good variety, the only 



44 



The $100 Prize Essays 



objection being (not a serious one) the heads grow almost too 
hard, and the core is rather thick. Sow the seed the latter end 
of March in a cold bed ; when a few inches high, transplant in 
another bed ; this will make them hardy and strong. About 
the middle of May they will be fit to plant out ; pull all the 




JOHNSON & STOKES' MATCHLESS LATE FLAT DUTCH CABBAGE. 

largest plants for the first planting, and two weeks later set out 
another planting. These crops will succeed the early spring 
planting, and if the ground has had a previous coat of manure, 
a sprinkling of guano will be sufficient for a good crop. For 
late fall and winter cabbage, sow the seed the second week in 
April ; it is not necessary to transplant at this time of year. 



Cabbage and Onion Culture. 45 

Sow in rows not too thick, nor in too rich a soil, and keep free 
from weeds. We prefer the Matchless Flat Dutch, which grows 
to large size late in the fall and is harder and finer-ribbed than 
the Drumhead, and the best of keepers. The best soil for late 
cabbage is good sod ground. About the first of July, or as 
near that time as possible after a good shower, plough your sod 
and get the ground ready ; mark out your rows, and in the fur- 
row spread well-rotted fine manure, mixed with a little Peruvian 
guano ; close the furrow, and roll it down. After a shower, set 
out your plants; when fully started, cultivate and keep clean 
from weeds around the plants with a hoe. This cabbage will 
head in time for the kraut season. For keeping through the 
winter, we have planted as late as the second week in August. 
Storing. — How to keep cabbage during the winter and late 
in spring, when there is a scarcity and great demand for it, 
even in preference to spinach or kale, is very important. It 
seems to me, farmers and gardeners generally do not yet under- 
stand how to keep this vegetable until the demand is good and 
the supply small. Last fall, we bought for a store the finest 
Jersey-grown cabbage for $2.50 and $3.00 per hundred ; and an 
uncle of mine, who had 14 acres of the finest, could only get 
$1.50 per hundred, and no sale for it at that. In February, good 
cabbage was worth $ 1 o and $ 1 2 per hundred, and little to be had, 
excepting some small, scrubby stuff, burst in the head ; yet 
customers bought it, because they could get no other; the 
Southern cabbage had not yet arrived, and customers always 
prefer the old to the new, if in good condition. Late in the 
fall, when winter is about to set in, most farmers plough a deep 
furrow across the cabbage-field, and gather what they intend to 
bury on either side and put in the furrow, heads down and roots 
out. They then plough a furrow on each side, and cover ; then 
plough another furrow, 20 or 30 feet away, according to the 
amount of cabbage yet remaining on the field, and so on. 



46 The $100 Prize Essay 

When a hard freeze comes they are unable to get it out 
without great difficulty; the result is they have to wait for a 
thaw. If the cold be long and intense, the frost strikes the root 
and goes clear to the heart, and when taken out and left to 
thaw, it is valueless. We saw some of this kind after a severe 
winter, in a commission house. We bought some for our store, 
there being no other to be had ; after being a few days in the 
warm store, it looked as though it had been cooked, not even fit 
for hoof feed. When the frost strikes the heart the entire head 
is gone. If the winter is open and warm, cabbage buried in 
this way will not keep ; it heats, smothers and ripens, and when 
taken out becomes yellow and bursts, consequently must be 
hurried off to market. The question is, How, then, are we to 
keep cabbage through these extremes for a profitable market ? 
It is not necessary to erect large cold storage-houses. In a few 
simple words, I will tell my way ; those who wish to try it can 
profit by it: About the second week in November, pull up all 
cabbage you do not intend to cut, even if not headed ; those not 
yet headed keep by themselves ; plough a deep furrow east and 
west, throwing the ground to the south ; begin and lay your 
cabbage against this furrowed root in the ground, as close as 
you can, leaving the head to the south. When the row is full, 
plough a furrow against the cabbage, covering the roots well 
up to the head; then lay another row of cabbage, and so on, 
until all is in. Those not yet headed should be laid by them- 
selves ; they will keep later, and in open weather will form good 
heads. Cover with leaves from the woods, if they can be had ; if 
not, salt hay or corn fodder, which can be fed in spring. This 
done, wait for a demand in the market for your crop; and in the 
coldest weather a man can go out and cut a wagon-load in a 
half day. It will always look fresh and crisp, and will keep late 
in spring, no matter how open the winter. 



CABBAGE AND ONION CULTURE. 



PRIZE ESSAY BY JAS. MOSS, WESTMINSTER, ORANGE COUNTY, CAL. 



With the exception of the potato, these two vegetables are 
the most important and useful varieties to be found in the 
culinary vegetable kingdom, and for their successful production, 
there are three important essentials, viz : Good seed, suitable soil 
and careful and intelligent preparation and cultivation. 

ONION CULTURE. 

Soil. — The most suitable soil for the successful production 
of this important vegetable is a rich heavy loam ; never select 
a light sandy soil if you have land of the above description, for, 
although you may grow nice onions on the latter, you will pro- 
duce magnificent ones on the former. 

Preparation. — It is most important to remember that the 
onion is a vigorous feeder, delights in deeply-dug and well- 
manured land ; but presuming these remarks to apply to its 
cultivation upon an extensive scale, we must consider the best 
method of preparation under the plough. 

Last year I grew 26 tons of onions to the acre, and the fol- 
lowing is the system I employed in the preparation of the soil : 
I gave a liberal covering of well-rotted farm-yard manure (the 
older the manure the better), and I may add here, if you have 
any long or new manure, stable or otherwise, it will pay you well 
to have it turned over and have it thrown into a solid pile after 
being well-saturated with heavy rain; in a few days it will heat 
and ferment, and when the heating process is finished, the 
manure will, of course, be short, and much more suitable for 



m 



4 8 



The $100 Prize Essays 



fertilizing- purposes, for new manures have a tendency to 
retard rather than promote the growth of vegetation. 

After spreading the manure, I had a couple of ploughs fol- 
lowing each other, the latter one turning up the soil from the 
bottom of the furrow, or in other words sub-soiling ; this is most 
important, as it enables the onions to root much more deeply, 
and not merely producing larger bulbs, but enabling the crop 




EXTRA LARGE RED WETHERSFIELD ONION. 



to withstand a longer period of drought than under the ordi 
nary system of single ploughing. 

The roots of the onion will grow deeply into the ground 
where the soil is favorable, a fact not generally supposed by 
most growers ; hence, the advantage of deep cultivation. 

It is important to remember the ploughing must be done 
when the land is in proper condition; it must, be merely damp, 
not wet ; and the soil must fall away freely and lightly when 



Cabbage and Onion Culture. 



49 



turned over. If your land is not in this condition, you must 
wait until it is, or your crop will suffer in consequence. After 
ploughing, run your cultivator or drag through the land, so as 
to thoroughly pulverize the soil, after which harrow smooth 




^^rK 



>P\ 




. 



and level ; your land will then be in prime condition for the 
reception of the seed. 

Sowing. — Sow the seed in rows 14 or 15 inches apart, and he 
sure not to drill too deeply; half an inch is quite sufficient. 



50 The $100 Prize Essays 

This distance between the rows will give you ample room for 
the frequent application of the hoe or cultivator, which, above 
all, must not be neglected. Never allow the weeds to overtop 
the young plants or your crops will be of no account. So soon 
as there are the slightest signs of germinating weeds, com- 
mence at once to cultivate, and whilst your plants are young 
and growing, cultivate or hoe as deeply as you can, not merely 
for the purpose of exterminating the weeds, but, what is of equal 
importance, keeping the soil well open ; thus allowing the free 
circulation of air to the roots and the heat rays of the sun to 
penetrate — two conditions indispensable to a healthy, vigorous 
growth, equally applicable to the vegetable as well as the ani- 
mal kingdom. 

Thin out the young plants so soon as you can handle 
them (the sooner the better) to a distance according to the 
variety you are growing, the location and time of sowing ; if 
an early variety, such as Ivory Ball, Extra Early Pearl or other 
early white varieties, to about 4 to 5 inches ; but if growing the 
laree late varieties for late autumn and winter use, such as 
Philadelphia Yellow Globe Danvers, Extra Large Red Wethersfield 
and also the wonderful new Spanish varieties, Madrid Giant and 
Spanish King, should recommend a distance of from 7 to 10 
inches. I always thin out to fully 10 inches, and grow onions 
weighing over 5 pounds each ; indeed, the crop resembles more 
that of a field of turnips when matured, and I am convinced 
every grower may do likewise, providing he adopts the same 
liberal methods. 

If you live in the South or Southern California, onions may 
almost be grown all the year round, but they make the finest 
crops sown from December to February, and require no irriga- 
tion. Last year my main crop was sown in February and har- 
vested in August, but the early varieties can be matured and 
shipped in April and May. If you live in the Northern States, 



Cabbage and Onion Culture. 



51 




52 The $100 Prize Essays 

sow your onions as soon as the spring weather commences, and 
your land becomes in condition, for the late varieties will 
require all the time you can give them. If your climate is 
more temperate, make a sowing of the late varieties in the 
month of August , they will become strong plants and secure 
a good root-hold before the winter frosts, when you can pre- 
pare your land and transplant in the spring, and I venture to 
say you will have onions as large and handsome as those pro- 
duced under more favorable climatic conditions. 

Harvesting. — It is somewhat difficult to pronounce the time 
of harvesting this crop, which must be left in a great measure 
to the judgment and sagacity of the grower. It is, however, but 
a simple matter of observation as to the time the bulbs are 
ripe, and when stored (if not sold from the field) be sure and 
have your bulbs perfectly dry ; do not leave them long on the 
ground after being drawn, and be careful to store in a dry, cool 
place, well ventilated. 

Onions are also largely grown from sets, but as the sets are 
themselves produced from seed, these remarks will be equally 
applicable to their cultivation in this form. 

Remarks. — The widely-recognized medical and health-giving 
properties of the onion are yearly bringing it more and more 
into general use. Many, if not all, our most eminent physicians 
declare it the most healthy of all foods, and recommend its 
daily use in some form in every household. 

The British Medical Journal says : " If onions were eaten 
every day by children, such diseases as scarlet fever, diphtheria 
and other throat affections would almost be unknown." Let 
us, therefore, hope to see this most useful vegetable exalted t'o 
that high position it deserves to fill in every household. 



Cabbage and Onion Culture. 53 

CABBAGE CULTURE. 

Sowing the Seed. — The ground selected upon which to 
grow the young plants should be of the richest possible kind; a 
moderately light loam is most suitable, and this should receive 
a very liberal coat of well-rotted farm-yard manure, or perhaps 
better, where procurable, an equal covering of well-decayed leaf 
mould and also a sprinkling of coal soot will be found of great 
value, not merely as a fertilizer, but a protection against wire- 
worm and other insect pests so destructive to young plants in 
some soils. Do not fail to work your seed-beds well before 
sowing; it is by far the best to dig it; a four-pronged potato-fork 
is what I always use for this purpose ; it not merely turns over 
the soil, but also thoroughly pulverizes it, which is absolutely 
necessary to the growth of sound healthy plants. 

When your seed-bed has thus been prepared and well raked 
over, the seed can be sown in shallow drills J / 2 inch deep in 
rows 12 inches apart, or it may be sown broadcast and well 
raked in ; the former is preferable on account of weeding and 
hoeing, but remember at all times to avoid overcrowding ; this 
is a most serious mistake made by many growers. I have often 
seen as much seed crowded upon a rod of land as ought to have 
had an area of twenty, with, of course, the result of ruining the 
whole of the plants, causing them to grow long, slender and 
spiry, in fact, so weak, that upon removal into the field, their 
vitality is gone, and great numbers will never grow, and in case 
of those that do, the heads will be small and inferior. Under 
circumstances similar to the above, the unoffending seedsman is 
blamed for supplying inferior seed, etc., when of course the 
whole secret is entirely due to the ignorance of the grower. 

It is quite as necessary for growing plants to have proper 
breathing room and their full share of nourishment from the 
soil as it is for the proper feeding of young animals or children. 



54 



The $100 Prize Essays 




Cabbage and Onion Culture. 55 

If you desire fully-developed healthy animals, each must have 
its allotted share of pasture or other food; also, if your children 
are to be healthy, they must be properly fed and have the full 
benefit of pure, fresh air. Therefore, treat your growing crops 
in a like liberal and intelligent manner, and depend upon it you 
will reap your full reward; "a good article is always half sold," 
and young cabbages raised in this manner will be strong, 
healthy and vigorous. 

In an extensive country like the United States of America, 
extending almost from the Tropics to the Frozen Zone, it is 
practically impossible to lay down a rule of time for sowing and 
planting. Every grower knows the climatic condition and 
peculiarities of his own district, and upon this knowledge he 
must trust for guidance in these matters. In the South, of 
course, the seed can be sown any time and planted out when 
ready, but they always thrive best in the early spring. In the 
temperate regions of the North, the seed maybe sown in a well- 
sheltered location in the months of August or September. When 
under ordinarily favorable circumstances, the early spring will 
find you in possession of abundance of fine healthy plants. 

Early summer cabbages command the best prices, and in 
point of quality and early production we have found none to 
equal Johnson & Stokes "Earliest Cabbage" but, of course, in 
order to keep the ball rolling, we must also have a good second 
early and late variety, such as Genuine Sure Head, Short Stern 
Drumhead or Diamond Winter for late, and Market Gardeners No. 
2 for second early. 

After the production of strong healthy plants our work is 
straightforward and simple. For the earliest varieties, select a 
piece" of light, rich sandy land, for though cabbages grow best 
in heavy rich land, as early maturity is our object, the former 
is best suited to our purpose, as the light land admits more 
freely and retains longer the warm rays of the sum and thereby 



56 



The $100 Prize Essays 



promotes a more rapid growth. For the later kinds, I would 
certainly recommend the heavy soil ; plough well and deep and 
thoroughly pulverize ; the cabbage likes rich, well fertilized soil, 
and the roots must be able to branch out freely in every direction. 
If your land has been well prepared the previous fall, so much 
the better. 




Plant your cabbages deeply the full length of the stem, 
press the soil well to the roots, and in the case of the early kinds 
have your rows about 2 feet apart and your cabbages about 18 
inches apart in the row ; the later and larger kinds should be 
grown in rows fully 30 inches or even 3 feet apart, and in the 
rows about 24 inches ; do not overcrowd ; you will gain in 
weight and quality far in excess of what you lose in numbers. 



Cabbage and Onion Culture. 



57 



Do not neglect to cultivate and hoe, keep your plants clean 
and the land well open for both sun and air, and your crop will 
be assured. 

No vegetable will thrive in water ; they may exist for a time, 
but in case of heavy rains it is always well to arrange your rows 
according to the natural drainage of the field, when you can 
hill up your growing plants with the cultivator and allow the 
surface water to drain off as soon as possible. 

Every grower knows when and how to sell his crops. In 
our large cities, there are thousands of people waiting for the 
farmer's produce, and to whom a cabbage and an onion are 
almost as indispensable as the air. In these days of enterprise 
and progression, with our railway and water services, the far- 
mer, no matter how remote his farm, is, so to speak, practically 
near to all our best markets. If you have a large crop to dispose 
of, place yourself in communication with your agents, and gain all 
the information you can as 

to prices, supply, etc., in our ^fl^ii'l; ^^^ ^ hjfj, u i_«Z# r 7 
large cities, and be ready 
to fill an order promptly 
to the most favorable 
market. Do not cut your 
cabbages as you come to 
them ; place your hand 
upon each head, and select 
only those which are firm 
and well matured, leaving 
all others for a second or 
later shipment. 

Remarks.— A few comments concerning the production of 
good seeds may, perhaps, be allowed in connection with the 
above. I would advise, by all means and at all times, to buy 
your seeds from reliable seed-growers. The production of pure 




SINGLE-WHEEL HOE. 
CULTIVATING CABBAGE WITH THE " PLANET JR. 



58 The $100 Prize Essays. 

seed can only be accomplished by the most watchful and experi- 
enced care ; the ever-watchful eye of the seed-grower is ready 
to detect and remove any foreign or bastard strain that may 
make its appearance among his crop, and thereby securing for 
the public good a strain of seed pure and true, so far as human 
efforts can prevail. Onion seed is also grown from the most 
perfect bulbs, and none but the experienced in this work ought 
to undertake the responsibility of supplying the market with 
seeds, for the loss, pecuniarily, to growers through the sale of 
impure seeds is more than can be easily comprehended. I shall 
never forget an incident that occurred to me some fifteen years 
ago. I had a favorite strain of cabbages, and I resolved to plant 
out a few for seed, which I did in my garden. All went well 
and I had an excellent crop of seed, harvested it and sold sev- 
eral lots; the remainder I sowed upon a rood of land, and the 
following spring I sold thousands of plants, besides planting 
out quite a lot myself; but judge of my dismay, as the season 
advanced, to find I had not a single cabbage — not one came to 
a head. Of course, I heard of it from all my customers, and the 
loss I inflicted upon them (unknowingly, of course) was more 
than I can here estimate. Upon investigation, I found my 
neighbors' gardens had all kinds of cabbages and greens going to 
seed at the same time, such as Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, curled 
greens, and other of the cabbage tribe, when, of course, my seed 
had been inoculated and consequently worthless. This experi- 
ence, I can assure you, proved an effectual warning, and I have 
ever since bought my seeds direct from reliable seedsmen. 



THE FAMILY VEGETABLE GARDEN. 

Preparation of the Ground. — In order to secure a fair return 
in seasonable crops, for the labor and outlay invested, it is 
essential that the soil of the vegetable garden should be well 
underdrained, thoroughly trenched or subsoiled, and enriched 
by a judicious application of fertilizing material. 

For those who have not already formed their plans in lay- 
ing out a Vegetable Garden, and cannot avail themselves of such 
a slope of ground or quality of soil as they desire, must take 
up with such as may be within their reach. If practicable, a 
vegetable garden should have a warm and southeasterly expo- 
sure. But when the ground slopes to the North and West, it is 
important to have the garden located on the sunny-side of an 
orchard or out-buildings. Every person, previous to building, 
should select the most desirable situation for the vegetable 
garden. 

Laying out the ground, a border may be formed around the 
whole garden, from 5 to 10 feet wide, according to the size of 
your ground ; next to this border a walk may be made from 3 
to 6 feet wide, and divide the middle in squares or fancy beds, 
as may be desired, on the sides of which a border 3 to 4 feet 
wide may be laid out, in which the various kinds of small fruits 
may be raised to advantage. The centre beds may be planted 
with all kinds of vegetables, the outer or fence border, for rais- 
ing the earliest fruits and vegetables, also serves for raising and 
pricking out such young plants, herbs, and cuttings as require 
to be screened from the intense heat of the sun, and the very 
early vegetables which can be protected from slight frosts. 

The mode of laying out the ground is a matter of taste, and 
may be left to the gardener himself to determine, the form 



60 The Family Vegetable Garden. 

being- of little importance in the production of useful vege- 
tables ; and it matters not if the ground is laid out in beds of 4 
or 10 feet wide, provided it is well worked and kept neat and 
free of weeds. 

The exposure of a garden has much to do with the early 
maturity of the crops ; an exposure to the morning sun is 
desirable. The soil must be in a friable state to secure the 
prompt vegetation of the seeds, and the destruction, or rather 
prevention, of weeds, is one of the most desirable results of fre- 
quent stirring of the surface. Soils are susceptible of altera- 
tion and improvement in texture ; heavy clays can be rendered 
open and porous, and light, sandy soils may be consolidated 
and rendered more retentive of moisture. 

Garden Requisites. — There are several aids to the economical 
management of the garden, which are almost indispensable; 
one of these is the hot-bed frame for the forwarding of plants 

»OT*S ^i*«^--» g j f eet w id e> the size of glass 
6 by 8 inches, including sash bearers, making the entire frame of 
four sashes 1 3 feet by 6J feet. The best and most convenient sash 
have no cross-bars, but are made with a groove the length of sash, 
the glass slides in from below, avoiding the use of putty. When 
the one bar is filled with glass, it is only necessary to put a tack 
in the bottom bar, to keep the glass from sliding down. The 
frame should have a Southern or Southeastern exposure, should 
be made up with fresh horse manure and a few leaves mixed 
with it; this must be laid in a heap preparatory to being used, 



The Family Vegetable Garden. 61 

and when in a proper state of fermentation, is prepared for the 
reception of the frame. Ten inches of rich loamy soil must be 
spread over the manure, then cover the frame with the sashes, 
and after standing a few days to allow the rank heat and steam 
to pass off, the seed can be sown. Where the ground is well 
drained, a better plan is to dig out a space the size of the frame, 
from i to 2 feet deep, according to the season and the heat 
required, in which the manure is placed, care being taken to 
pack it firmly and evenly. 

The cold frame for wintering Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce 
Plants, etc., should be constructed of i inch boards, i foot high 
at the back by 9 inches high in front and 6 feet wide ; 5 short 
posts to the length of 16 feet boards will answer to keep in 
position. The shutters should be 6 feet 4 inches long by 3 feet 
wide, made of common rough boards. The soil should be 
enriched by old and well-decayed manure, unless in good order; 
the object being to preserve and not to grow the plants during 
the winter. Give plenty of air by raising the shutters every 
mild pleasant day, but on no consideration open the frame or 
expose the plants to the sun when the ground or plants are 
frozen, as it will destroy them. 

Very many who read this article on hot-beds and cold-frames 
are perhaps never likely to have one. To such there is an 
excellent substitute on hand in most dwellings, in the kitchen 
or basement windows, facing south or east, inside of which is a 
temperature usually not far from that required for the vegeta- 
tion of seeds, and where seeds of early vegetables, or tender 
plants for the flower border, may be raised nearly as well and 
with far less attention than in a hot-bed. 

When and What to Plant. — For a succession of crops, observe 
the following list, that may be sown in the months designated 
from February to October in the vicinity of Philadelphia. These 



62 The Family Vegetable Garden. 

directions may, however, be applied to all other parts of the 
United States, by a minute observance of the difference in tem- 
perature. 

February. Sow in Hot-beds. — Broccoli, Early Cabbage, 
Cauliflower, Carrot, Celery, Egg-plant, Early Lettuce, Parsley 
Peas, Pepper, Radish and Tomato. 

March. Sow in Hot-beds. — Early Beans, Early Beets, 
Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Early Cabbage, Carrot, Cauliflower, 
Celery, Cucumber, Egg-plant, Kohl-rabi, Lettuce, Parsley, Pep- 
per, Potatoes, Radish and Tomato. 

Sow in the Open Ground when the Weather is Favorable. — Beet, 
Carrot, Cress, Kale, Leek, Onion Sets, Onion Seed, Extra Early 
Peas, Potatoes, Radish, Spinach and Early Turnips. 

April. Sow in Hot-beds. — Sweet Corn, Cucumber, Egg-plant, 
Melon, Pepper and Tomato. 

Sow in the Open Ground. — Asparagus, Beet, Broccoli, Brus- 
sels Sprouts, Early Cabbage, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celery, Cress, 
Endive, Kale, Kohl-rabi, Leek, Lettuce, Onion Sets, Onion Seed, 
Parsley, Parsnip, Peas, Potatoes, Radish, Spinach, Sage, Salsify 
and Early Turnips. 

May. Sow in the Open Ground. — Artichoke, Asparagus, Bush 
Beans, Pole Beans, Beet, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Late Cab- 
bage, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celery, Sweet Corn, Cress, Cucumber, 
Endive, Kale, Kohl-rabi, Leek, Lettuce, Melon, Onion Sets, 
Onion Seed, Parsley, Parsnip, Wrinkled Peas, Potatoes, Radish, 
Rhubarb, Salsify, Long Standing Spinach, Squash, Tomato, 
Early Turnips and all kinds of Herbs. 

June. Sow in the Open Ground. — Bush Beans, Pole Beans, 
Lima Beans, Beet, Brussels Sprouts, Late Cabbage, Savoy Cab- 
bage, Carrot, Cauliflower, Sweet Corn, Cucumber, Cress, Endive, 



The Family Vegetable Garden. . 63 

Kohl-rabi, Lettuce, Melon, Nasturtium, Okra, Peas, Potatoes, 
Pumpkin, Radish, Salsify, Squash and Herbs. 

July. Sozv in the Open Ground. — Bush Beans, Beet, Carrot 
Sweet Corn, Corn Salad, Cucumber, Endive, Gherkin, Lettuce, 
Nasturtium, Okra, Early Peas, Pumpkin, Radish, Squash, White 
and Yellow Turnip and Ruta-baga. 

August. Sozv in the Open Ground. — Bush Beans, Corn Salad, 
Cucumber, Endive, Lettuce, Early Peas, Radish, Spinach and 
Turnips. 

September. Sow in the Open Ground. — Cabbage and Cauli- 
flower Seeds, to be transplanted in Cold Frames, Corn Salad, 
Cress, Kale, Lettuce, Mustard, Winter Radish, Spinach and 
Early Turnips. 

October. Sow in Frames Under Glass. — Cauliflower, Cabbage, 
Lettuce and Early Radish. Spinach can still be sown in the 
open ground if it has been neglected last month. 



REMARKS ON THE FAILURE OF SEEDS. 

From a conviction that the Seedsman s fair reputation is of ten 
unjustly defamed, through the failure of seeds, we would with 
brevity state some of the causes. 

That some cultivators, through ignorance or forgetfulness of 
the fact that the products of a garden, being natives of various 
soils and climates, require peculiar management, deposit their 
seeds in the ground at an improper season. 

The early and most hardy species and varieties should not 
be planted until the ground can be brought into good condition, 
as some species of plants, that in an advanced stage of growth 
will stand a hard winter, are often cut off by a very slight frost 
while young, especially if exposed to the sun after a frosty 
night. 



64 • The Family Vegetable Garden. 

That some species of seeds, such as Beans, Beets, Cabbage, 
Lettuce, Radish, Salsify, Turnip, etc., being from their nature 
apt to vegetate quickly, are often destroyed while germinating 
through variableness of the weather, and some are liable to be 
devoured by the insects in forty-eight hours after they are sown, 
and before a plant is seen above the ground, unless a suitable 
remedy is applied in time to annoy the insects. 

That some species, such as Carrot, Celery, Leek, Onion, 
Parsley, Parsnip, Spinach, etc., being naturally of tardy growth, 
taking in unfavorable seasons from two to three or four weeks 
to vegetate, are apt to perish through incrustation of the soil, or 
other untoward and unaccountable circumstances, which can- 
not always be controlled. 

That the failures often occur through Seeds being deposited 
too deeply in the ground, or left too near the surface. Some- 
times, for the want of a sufficiency of seed in a given spot, 
solitary plants will perish, they not having sufficient strength 
to open the pores of the earth, and very frequently injudicious 
management in over-manuring and improperly preparing the 
soil will cause defeat. 

That in some sowings of seed made during dry weather, a 
total failure often occurs from neglecting to roll or firmly press 
the soil after sowing, so that when they germinate the action 
of the heat and drought may not affect the germ. We are 
satisfied that thousands of pounds of Turnip, late Cabbage 
and other Summer-sown Seeds are annually lost from this 
neglect. Observe never to tread or roll the soil after sowing, 
when the ground is wet. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




■w THE • LHRGEST 

EED 

~«- -f— — 

IN TUB EPlST. 




111111111111 

i nil 

000 938 904 






ACTUAL FLOOR SPACE, OVER 48,000 SQUARE FEET. 



2l9 IMPLEMENTS 217 




UOHNSON &l STOKES 



I 



11 



=4^=^ 



G AR DE Nand G R AS S S EEDS I 




217 ^ 219 MHRKET STREET, 

EXTENDING THROUGH TO 

Nos. 206 AND 208 CHURCH STREET, 
PHILADELPHIA, PA. 



Edward Stern & Co., Prs., Phila. 



